It looks like a lacy, very dainty version of parsley, which is no surprise seeing as they're close cousins, both in the umbelliferae family, along with frondy carrots and fennel.As you might expect from its refined appearance, chervil tastes mild and subtle, a little like parsley, but with a sophisticated yet gentle, aniseedy warmth.It's a notion that spread beyond the ancient world, too: in European folklore, the eating of chervil was encouraged because it was said not only to aid digestion, but to inspire cheerfulness and sharp wits.It needs a cool, moist spot with dappled shade; when you've found that, simply scatter the seeds where you'd like them to grow because it doesn't transplant well due to its long taproot (sow more than you need and use the thinnings as a pretty, tasty addition to salads).It bolts with unseemly haste in hot weather, so resow every few weeks to ensure a steady supply.And if you need any more convincing, I'm told that chervil repels slugs and that planting it near your radishes allegedly makes them hotter.It grows well in a pot, too, and can thrive indoors long into the winter provided it's out of strong, direct sunlight.Like tarragon, chervil is most often swirled, whisked and folded into classic French dishes, but it's much too good to leave to the other side of the Channel.It's often used with tarragon, as in last week's béarnaise sauce or - along with chives, parsley and tarragon - as one of the French fab four of flavour in a fines herbes mixture used to season omelettes or creamy sauces for fish or chicken, but it's quite capable of holding its own solo.Mixed with seasoned breadcrumbs and a little very finely diced shallot, chervil makes a good topping for grilled oysters.A delicious, easy side dish to go with roast chicken, baked ham or grilled fish.Simmer the cream for a minute to reduce it slightly, then pour over the peas with the butter, pepper and chervil, give it a good stir and serve immediately.Return to the pan, add the double cream or crème fraîche and reheat thoroughly but gently, without boiling.Serve at once, with a little chopped chervil sprinkled on top, or chill for a few hours if you want to enjoy it as a cold soup.Remove the sheet from the oven, leave the wafers to cool slightly, then carefully lift them off with a wide spatula
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